Date(s) - 22/03/2019
6:30 pm - 8:00 pm
Patola: cloth of kings
The complexity and time-intensiveness is what makes Patola so valuable. A dizzyingly mathematical process, Patola saris are woven using dyed threads both vertically (warp) and horizontally (weft) to create the design. The strings are dyed according to a pattern, and the dye marks align when woven, forming the pattern on the cloth.
Patola is a double ikat woven sari, usually made from silk, made in Patan, Gujarat, India. The word Patola is the plural form; the singular is patolu. They are very expensive, once worn only by those belonging to royal and aristocratic families. These saris are popular among those who can afford the high prices. Velvet patola styles are also made in Surat.
Patola-weaving is a closely guarded family tradition. There are three families in Patan that weave these highly prized double ikat saris. It is said that this technique is taught to no one in the family, but only to the sons. It can take six months to one year to make one sari due to the long process of dying each strand separately before weaving them together. Patola was woven in Surat, Ahmedabad and Patan. Highly valued in Indonesia, became part of the local weaving tradition there.
The main difference between a Pochampally and a Patola, both using the Ikat technique, is that of geography and the design language. Pochampally, Ikat & Patola, essentially refer to the same technique of weaving, which is a cross-over between printing and weaving.
To create a patola sari, both the warp and weft threads are wrapped to resist the dye according to the desired pattern of the final woven fabric. This tying is repeated for each colour that is to be included in the finished cloth. The technique of dyeing the warp and weft before weaving is called double ikat. The bundles of thread are strategically knotted before dying.
Patola saris from surat, Ahmedabad and Patan are renowned for their colorful diversity and geometrical style.